This honey stands out at first sight: deep amber or reddish in color, with a velvety texture and exceptional density. Its taste is remarkably balanced — less sweet than flower honey — with notes of caramel, forest herbs, and a subtle resin-like aroma that evokes the woods from which it originates. One of its signature qualities is that it hardly ever crystallizes, remaining smooth and pourable for a long time — a characteristic highly valued by consumers.

Local beekeepers work on a small scale, often practicing environmentally respectful apiculture, avoiding excessive hive migration to preserve the authenticity of the product. Several producers have earned major distinctions: most notably, Evrytania’s fir honey has received top awards at the London International Honey Awards, including the coveted Platinum recognition.

Demand for Evrytania fir honey is steadily growing, as more and more consumers seek products with clear provenance, authenticity, and certification. There are even ongoing discussions about its registration as a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) product, a move that would formally recognize its uniqueness.

For visitors, this honey is more than just a taste — it is an experience. It can be sampled in traditional cafés or purchased directly from producers, often during a visit to the beehives in the villages. It is perhaps the most authentic souvenir one can take home: a jar that captures the aroma and flavor of Evrytania’s wild mountain nature.

In Homer’s Iliad, the Evrytanes are counted among the Greek allies who joined the Trojan War, led by chiefs such as Gouneas, Phoinix, Thoas, Machaon, and Podaleirios, sons of Asclepius. Ancient authors often described them as a strong yet “wild” people, living in inaccessible mountains and speaking a dialect difficult for other Greeks to understand.

During the Classical period, Evrytania was part of Aetolia and later joined the Aetolian League, which became one of the most powerful political entities of Hellenistic Greece. Its strategic location between Aetolia, Thessaly, and Phthiotis made it a contested area. In 429 BC, the Athenian general Demosthenes launched a campaign to secure the region for Athens, only to be defeated by the combined forces of the Evrytanes and the Aetolians — a testament to the martial spirit of the locals and the difficulty of conquering this mountainous land.

Archaeological evidence confirms the area’s continuous habitation. The hill of Paliokastro preserves traces of fortress walls, probably from the Classical or Hellenistic period. At Kaminia, tombs containing bronze grave goods have been unearthed, while ongoing research seeks to determine the exact location of ancient Oichalia, which some scholars place at Petralona or Hochlia. Scattered Mycenaean remains further suggest that the region played a role in the Late Bronze Age world.

During the Hellenistic era, Evrytania remained part of the Aetolian League, which repeatedly fought against the Macedonians and later the Romans. After the League’s defeat in 189 BC, the region came under Roman rule, yet its people retained their identity and mountain way of life.

Today, visitors can trace this long and fascinating history by exploring the remnants of walls at Paliokastro, the hilltop sites that once served as fortifications, and the archaeological finds displayed in local museums. Evrytania is not only a destination of natural beauty but also an open-air museum of history, telling the story of a proud people from the age of myth to the present day.

Archaeological sites for travelers to explore:

• Paliokastro Hill (Agios Andreas) – Panoramic views and remains of fortress walls from the Classical/Hellenistic era.
• Kaminia Site (Agios Andreas area) – Ancient tombs and bronze grave goods.
• Petralona or Hochlia – Proposed locations of ancient Oichalia, linked to the myth of Eurytos.
• West Fragkista – Passes – Defensive remains and strategic mountain lookouts.
• Karpenisi Folklore Museum – Displays finds from different archaeological periods.

Two of the most remote and picturesque spots in the region are the villages of Krikello and Domnista, destinations well worth exploring — especially for those seeking peaceful moments and a connection with the wild beauty of the winter mountain.

The Road to Krikello: Mountain Beauty and History
To reach Krikello and Domnista, the route differs from the usual roads leading to Karpenisi and the ski center. From Lamia, visitors do not continue toward the new tunnel but turn off to follow the signs for Krikello and Domnista. This route stretches for about 16 kilometers and takes you along a stunning mountain road, with altitudes ranging between 1,350 and 1,500 meters. From there, the road crosses the forested ridge that connects Mount Kaliakouda with Kokkalia, offering breathtaking views of the Evrytania mountains and, on the other side, toward Phocis. The beauty of the landscape is amplified by the snow-covered peaks and fir-clad slopes, creating a sense of isolation and tranquility.

Krikello: The Village Nestled in Fir Forests
From the moment you leave the main road and turn toward Krikello, the first thing you notice is the rooftops of the village peeking out from among the fir trees. Perched at an altitude of 1,120 meters, Krikello is built on a gentle yet lush hillside. The square of Agios Nikolaos serves as the heart of the village, with its namesake church standing proudly at the center, built in 1903. Seven centuries-old plane trees and stone fountains with flowing water add a unique charm to the scene. Traditional tavernas and cafés complete the village atmosphere, which up until the Interwar period was a thriving main village with around 3,000 inhabitants.

The history of Krikello dates back to the 17th century, when seven smaller settlements merged around the famous “Solinaria” spring. Today, the village offers guesthouses, traditional tavernas, and the charming café “Mantzato,” known for its homemade desserts and herbal teas made from local mountain herbs. From here, visitors can explore historic chapels and sites that hold deep emotional significance for the locals.

Domnista: A Mountain Refuge and Monuments of the National Resistance
The route continues toward Domnista, crossing the Krikellopotamos River, a tributary of the Trikeriotis River. This river shapes the stunning landscape of the “Panta Vrehei” gorge, which cannot be crossed at this time of year due to the strong water flow and dangerous conditions. Domnista lies at an altitude of 1,000 meters and is home to the historic remains of the ancient Evrytania city of Phantinos.

A key historical moment for the village came on June 7, 1942, when Aris Velouchiotis, captain of ELAS, declared the armed resistance against the Nazis. Domnista is considered the first village to be liberated from the Nazi occupation, a fact commemorated by a small monument located just outside the settlement.

Domnista offers a modest tourist infrastructure, including a guesthouse, a taverna, and a folklore museum. The area is perfect for exploration, with opportunities to visit the remote villages of Roska, Psiana, and Ambliani, while the routes provide unparalleled views of the natural landscape.

Source [quote]
Krikello and Domnista:
Discovering the Historical and Natural Gems of Evrytania
alfavita | alfavita.gr

Its location lies between the villages of Epinianá and Agrafa, with most of the church hidden beneath the trees. From a distance, only the dome of the temple and its narrow windows stand out against the horizon.

It is one of the most impressive monasteries in the region, with the granite rocks of the Agrafa landscape adding even more atmosphere to its striking presence.

There are several theories about the origin of the monastery’s name. The most widely accepted suggests it comes from the “stánes” (shepherds’ huts) that once existed in the area during the Ottoman period. Another version claims that the icon of the Virgin Mary was brought here from the village of Stána in Amfilochia during the Iconoclasm period, and the locals named the imposing monastery after the place from which the icon originated.

According to historical accounts, the monastery dates back to the 15th or 16th century, a time when the mountainous region of Evrytania was flourishing. However, another tradition speaks of an icon of the Virgin Mary discovered inside a cave by shepherds in the 12th century. At that very spot, the local inhabitants built the first small chapel.

Access to the monastery is relatively challenging, as it involves a winding dirt road of about 3 kilometers. However, what awaits at the end is truly worth the effort, leaving every visitor wondering how human hands managed to create such a magnificent structure in this remote and rugged location.

Source 
Monastery of Panagia Stanas:
The Monastery in Agrafa in a Location that Takes Your Breath Away
Newsbeast | newsbeast.gr

Ingredients

• 1 kilo of spinach, cleaned and chopped
• 2 leeks, chopped
• 1/2 bunch green onions, chopped
• 1/2 bunch dill, chopped
• 2½ tsp. soup spoon of breadcrumbs
• 80 ml olive oil + 2 tsp. extra
• 1 kilo of fine cornmeal
• 1/2 tsp. of coarse salt
• 1.5 liters of warm water
• fine salt, freshly ground pepper

Procedure

Put the spinach with the leeks and green onions in a colander, salt them slightly, rub them a little with our palms and let them release their liquid a little.
Then, press them to drain well and put them in a bowl.
Add the dill and breadcrumbs, 80 ml of olive oil and a little pepper and mix well.
In a bowl pPut the flour, coarse salt, 2 tsp. of olive oil and water a little at a time, using as much as needed to make a porridge like thick cream (we may not need it all).
Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease the pan.
Spread half the porridge there and spread the vegetable mixture evenly on top.
Then we pour the rest of the porridge on top, spreading it with our palm or with a spatula to cover the greens as best as possible.
Bake the plastos for 1 hour or until the surface is nicely browned and dry.
Σερβίρουμε τον πλαστό χλιαρό.

Tips

• Place cubs of butter on top of the pie for crispy, fragrant baking
• You can replace the porridge water with milk and yogurt for a fluffier result
• As a real vegetable pie, you can use whatever dark green vegetables you have (instead of spinach)
• Goes great with yogurt to serve

Source 
Plastos, the "barefoot" grass pie
Gastronomos | gastronomos.gr | Ariadne Chantzi

Agraia Artemis

The most likely version for the name of the area is believed to be the ancient Greek tribe of Agraion, who lived mainly between the river Acheloos and Agrafiotis. The name of Agraion is etymologically derived from the word "agra", which means "hunting".

After all, it is no coincidence that the patroness of Agraion was Agraia Artemis, the goddess of hunting, who is also the emblem of the Municipality of Agrafa.

Konstantinos V

According to another version and the chronicler Michael Psellos, the area acquired its name during the iconoclasm period, when the iconoclast Constantine V was emperor of Byzantium.

Local residents are said to have refused to enforce the decree to remove the images from the temples and killed the emperor's emissaries. Then Constantine, enraged, erased the area from the maps of the Empire.

Resistance to the Turks

The most popular version, however, is the following. The area got its name because of the inability of the Turkish authorities to collect taxes by force, since there was strong resistance from the local population. So they deleted the area from the tax lists, and it was called "Agrafa", that is, not registered in the tax lists.

Source [quote]
Where did the Agrafa get their name from? Τhe village of the legendary Katsantonis who exterminated the Ottomans in one hour
Mixani tou Chronou | mixanitouxronou.gr

The Footprints of the Virgin Mary

Low on the rock above the small cave - small church with the icon of the Virgin Mary we see a remarkable - and for many inexplicable - geological phenomenon. On the vertical rock you can see seven different colored shapes in the form of footprints to which popular tradition has given the name "The Footprints of the Virgin Mary".

All relevant tradition states the following: The Evangelist Luke during the period he was in Patmos, painted together with other icons the icon of the Virgin Mary which is now in Prousos. For many centuries the icon was located and performed miracles in a large temple in Bursa, Asia Minor. During the period of iconoclasm, in 829 AD. she was taken by a man named Dionysus and brought to Greece to save her from destruction. Somewhere along the way, however, she lost it and was found in the cave where she is today by some shepherds, who for days had been seeing a mysterious luminous column that showed them a place.

When Dionysos learned that the icon was found somewhere in Karpenisi, he went and got it. As he was returning with his entourage they fell asleep. In the morning the image had disappeared and a mysterious voice told them that the image's wish was to remain where it was found in the area where the shepherds were. On her return to Prousos, the Virgin Mary passed by the place where the "Patima (Footprints)" are and piercing the mountain peak she crossed the mountain, which took the form of the icon.

Karaiskakis

The silver cover of the icon was donated by Karaiskakis in order to be cured of the heat that tyrannized him and because of which he stayed in Prousos at times to recover. Just before reaching the monastery we come across two fortified stone houses, the eastern and western towers of Karaiskakis which, as it is said, were built to protect the hero of the revolution during his hospitalization in Prousos.

Source [quote]
Magical routes of Potamia
Levanta Hotel | megaloxorio.gr

They are two cultural events held in July and August in the town of Karpenisi. Music, theater, dance events etc. dominate.

Trade fair

From July 29th to August 3rd, a trade fair is held in the town of Karpenisi, attracting the interest of both local residents and visitors.

Winter Festival

The events start 15 days before Christmas and last 10-15 days. The festivities begin with the lighting of the Christmas tree in the city's central square, followed by a chain of cultural events until the first days of the new year, organized by the Municipality and other cultural institutions.

Botsaria

Many sports activities are also held in Karpenisi, such as the "Botsaria" which include off-road races. Athletes from Central Greece and other regions participate in the competitions. The games are usually held in August.

Carnival

In addition to the masquerade, the Germanic customs of Karpenisi, the carnival folk performance "Panaratou" and the "Gypsic Wedding" of Clean Monday are celebrated. "Panaratos" is a custom that revives on the last Sunday of Shrovetide and on Clean Monday. This custom has been around since the beginning of the 20th century. It is a theatrical performance with a central axis, a variation of the case of Erophile, but it is also enriched with current issues. Panaretos is the son of the king of Thrace and falls in love with his daughter Vasilia, unfortunately the girl is destined for another husband and so Panaretos is beheaded while the unfortunate girl kills herself.

On Clean Monday, the "Gypsic Wedding" is performed, a satirical comedy starring only male residents of the village, the identification of the actors is such that the nicknames of the show also follow them in their daily lives.

Roumeliotiko Easter

At Easter in Karpenisi there is a procession and meeting of Epitaphs in the central square of the town on Good Friday with the participation of the Philharmonic. On Holy Saturday, the Resurrection of the God-man is celebrated with the throwing of sparklers and the distribution of red eggs by the Municipality to residents and visitors.

On Easter Sunday, the entire city is literally covered in smoke from hundreds of pits in the neighborhoods of the city, in which residents burn vines. The custom is revived every year on Easter Sunday in almost all the houses of Karpenisi. Next to the pits, the spits for roasting the obelia are set up and the feast with plenty of food, drink, dances and songs lasts until late at night. At the same time, the Municipality organizes music and dance events on Easter, to which locals and tourists are invited.

Feasts

• Feast of Agios Nikolaos Karpenisiotis on September 23, which is also a local holiday.
• Feast of Agios Athanasios on May 2.
• Feast of the Prophet Elias on July 20
• Feast of Agia Paraskevi on July 26.
• On the last Sunday of August, a festival is organized in honor of the Evrytan Saints.

Source [quote]
Customs of Karpenisi: traditions unchanged over time
Gnoriste tin Ellada | gnoristetinellada.gr